When the Klausjäger parade through the dark alleyways of Küssnacht am Rigi in December, Angela Greter always has a goosebump moment. However, she wanted to counter the tradition of only boys and men taking part with her own fashion. Inspired by the magic of the event, the fashion design graduate created styles for women.
The night of December 5 in Küssnacht am Rigi (SZ) belongs entirely to the Klausjägers, Trychlern and Geisselklepfern and their procession through the pitch-black alleyways. "I grew up with the Klausjagen", says Angela Greter from the neighboring village of Greppen (LU). "For me, it’s an incredibly fascinating custom, primal and powerful." The heads of the Klausjäger are adorned with colorful "Iffelen". This headdress, in the shape of an oversized bishop’s hat, is carefully crafted from cardboard and colored tissue paper. "There is so much manual work behind it. It’s a beautiful and actually far too little appreciated form of handicraft. That touches me."
However, the tradition also means that only boys and men are allowed to take part in the parade. "Although this tradition means a lot to many women like me, we are excluded." From the beginning of her fashion design studies at the FHNW Academy of Art and Design Basel until the end, Angela was driven by the idea of dedicating her Bachelor’s thesis to the topic of Klausjagen.
Her idea was to create styles for women and thus realize a very personal vision of the custom. She sees her work as a creative act and not as criticism, emphasizes the 27-year-old. There is no intention to change the Klausjagen. Perhaps women will be involved one day. But she didn’t want to wait that long.
The theoretical part of the bachelor’s degree was initially about exploring the phenomenon. How did the custom come about? And why? The research did not always yield clear results. It is not known exactly when the Klausjagen began. What we do know is that it was originally a pagan custom to drive out demons. Held in December before the winter solstice, it is also an incantation that the following year’s harvest will be bountiful. In Christian times, the Klausjagen was continued in a different form. It has existed in its current form since 1928 and is now one of the most impressive Swiss winter customs.
Headscarves and circuit boards
Then came part two of the bachelor’s degree: the practical part. "During my studies, I learned to find my own approach. The experience of the last few semesters has shown me that my ideas only take shape when I make them." Finding the right silhouettes was important to her. She learned how to achieve this through coaching from the cutting and processing lecturer.
This is how her outfit series was created, in which costume and couture merge. The red "Weiber" headscarf meets the dark business blazer, the white Klaus frock meets a new design and print foulards. She has also reinterpreted the famous Iffelen. They become bright features on the back and pockets. Angela has also made these by hand.
A tech company based in Küssnacht offered Angela defective plastic circuit boards. "Sensational parts to upcycle," enthuses Angela. She arranged the translucent plates in series on a dress. The stylistic element of repetition is a reference to the fir tree costumes of the Enzilochmannen in the Willisau winter tradition, but also to Rabanne’s haute couture pieces, where dresses are fitted with mirror plates.
For the catwalk at the final presentation, Angela chose women as models who have a close connection to Swiss customs. They walk slowly and deliberately through the audience.
Angela was later able to have her Klausjägerinnen perform once again at Mode Suisse 2024 in Zurich. The audience was transported into the atmosphere of the ancient custom, but also into that of a modern fashion show with Angela Greter’s signature.
